why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper? Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern) Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad?What is “veiling glare”? How does it affect my photos, and how can I avoid it?“Stack of Primes” vs “Honorary L” – How do these two 35-105mm f/3.5 lenses compare?What options do I have for a normal and fast prime lens for a Canon APS-C camera?Good all-round lens for Canon XS/1000D? Is 24-105mm F4.0 IS USM a good upgrade?Reducing my gear list after moving from Canon APS-C to FFWhy does higher aperture (less light) make an image sharper?What is the better Nikon primes among 50mm/1.8G, 50mm/1.8D and 35mm/1.8G for my D3200?You have two rooms to build your photography skills, measuring about 12 x 12 feet and 9 x 8.8 feet. What lens/lenses would you buy and why?Nikon 50mm 1.8g vs 1.8d?Are there reasons to go for an f/1.4 over an f/1.8 lens as my first fast prime?Will 50mm f1.4 and 85mm f1.8 lenses produce the same bokeh, given the same framing?Nikon 105mm f/2.8D or Nikon AF S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G
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why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper?
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)
Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteWhat image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad?What is “veiling glare”? How does it affect my photos, and how can I avoid it?“Stack of Primes” vs “Honorary L” – How do these two 35-105mm f/3.5 lenses compare?What options do I have for a normal and fast prime lens for a Canon APS-C camera?Good all-round lens for Canon XS/1000D? Is 24-105mm F4.0 IS USM a good upgrade?Reducing my gear list after moving from Canon APS-C to FFWhy does higher aperture (less light) make an image sharper?What is the better Nikon primes among 50mm/1.8G, 50mm/1.8D and 35mm/1.8G for my D3200?You have two rooms to build your photography skills, measuring about 12 x 12 feet and 9 x 8.8 feet. What lens/lenses would you buy and why?Nikon 50mm 1.8g vs 1.8d?Are there reasons to go for an f/1.4 over an f/1.8 lens as my first fast prime?Will 50mm f1.4 and 85mm f1.8 lenses produce the same bokeh, given the same framing?Nikon 105mm f/2.8D or Nikon AF S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.
I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?
lens aperture
New contributor
add a comment |
I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.
I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?
lens aperture
New contributor
1
Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
1
Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).
– mattdm
1 hour ago
add a comment |
I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.
I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?
lens aperture
New contributor
I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.
I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?
lens aperture
lens aperture
New contributor
New contributor
edited 1 hour ago
Prem Ramman
New contributor
asked 2 hours ago
Prem RammanPrem Ramman
62
62
New contributor
New contributor
1
Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
1
Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).
– mattdm
1 hour ago
add a comment |
1
Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
1
Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).
– mattdm
1 hour ago
1
1
Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
1
1
Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).
– mattdm
1 hour ago
Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).
– mattdm
1 hour ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
1) Sharpness is complicated.
Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.
And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.
2) Sharpness is overrated.
It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.
3) Don't forget that extra speed.
An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
add a comment |
What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?
They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.
Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.
Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.
The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.
I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)
Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4
Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8
Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5
There's more to lenses than sharpness.
- veiling glare
contrast
flare ghosts
- focal lengths, zoom range
max apertures – variable vs constant
distortion
- chromatic aberration
- bokeh (quality)
- close focusing / macro mode
color rendering
technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.
How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.
Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.
- I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).
- I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)
- I want closer minimum-focusing distance.
- I want bokeh with "character".
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
1) Sharpness is complicated.
Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.
And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.
2) Sharpness is overrated.
It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.
3) Don't forget that extra speed.
An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
add a comment |
1) Sharpness is complicated.
Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.
And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.
2) Sharpness is overrated.
It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.
3) Don't forget that extra speed.
An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
add a comment |
1) Sharpness is complicated.
Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.
And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.
2) Sharpness is overrated.
It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.
3) Don't forget that extra speed.
An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.
1) Sharpness is complicated.
Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.
And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.
2) Sharpness is overrated.
It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.
3) Don't forget that extra speed.
An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.
answered 1 hour ago
mattdmmattdm
123k40357654
123k40357654
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
add a comment |
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."
– Tetsujin
1 hour ago
add a comment |
What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?
They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.
Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.
Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.
The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.
I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)
Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4
Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8
Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5
There's more to lenses than sharpness.
- veiling glare
contrast
flare ghosts
- focal lengths, zoom range
max apertures – variable vs constant
distortion
- chromatic aberration
- bokeh (quality)
- close focusing / macro mode
color rendering
technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.
How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.
Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.
- I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).
- I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)
- I want closer minimum-focusing distance.
- I want bokeh with "character".
add a comment |
What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?
They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.
Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.
Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.
The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.
I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)
Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4
Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8
Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5
There's more to lenses than sharpness.
- veiling glare
contrast
flare ghosts
- focal lengths, zoom range
max apertures – variable vs constant
distortion
- chromatic aberration
- bokeh (quality)
- close focusing / macro mode
color rendering
technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.
How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.
Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.
- I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).
- I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)
- I want closer minimum-focusing distance.
- I want bokeh with "character".
add a comment |
What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?
They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.
Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.
Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.
The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.
I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)
Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4
Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8
Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5
There's more to lenses than sharpness.
- veiling glare
contrast
flare ghosts
- focal lengths, zoom range
max apertures – variable vs constant
distortion
- chromatic aberration
- bokeh (quality)
- close focusing / macro mode
color rendering
technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.
How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.
Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.
- I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).
- I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)
- I want closer minimum-focusing distance.
- I want bokeh with "character".
What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?
They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.
Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.
Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.
The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.
I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)
Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4
Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8
Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5
There's more to lenses than sharpness.
- veiling glare
contrast
flare ghosts
- focal lengths, zoom range
max apertures – variable vs constant
distortion
- chromatic aberration
- bokeh (quality)
- close focusing / macro mode
color rendering
technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.
How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.
Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.
- I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).
- I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)
- I want closer minimum-focusing distance.
- I want bokeh with "character".
edited 7 mins ago
answered 19 mins ago
xiotaxiota
12.1k41864
12.1k41864
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Prem Ramman is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera
– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago
1
Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).
– mattdm
1 hour ago