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What is best way to wire a ceiling receptacle in this situation?
Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 23:30 UTC (7:30pm US/Eastern)
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast?How do I wire a switch/receptacle combination?Is there some kind of adapter for an old ceiling box?Rewiring a switch controlled receptacle to a ceiling lightOddball wiring for ceiling lightWhat is the purpose of these removable “collars” on ceramic light fixturesHow close can light be to exposed insulation?Convert light fixture to receptacleWill cutting section of 2x4 reduce strengthWiring a ceiling light to a switched receptacleRunning wire in basement with drop ceiling
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I was trying to rewire this garage door opener where in current situation it is not code compliant to where it is. The picture above shows where a porcelain light socket was wired. I had hoped to use it for receptacle but the cover is too big for the box and the one that does fit is too recessed in ceiling. Behind the middle of box in picture is cross piece that is mounted between two ceiling joists. I had thought of keeping light and make another hole in ceiling for receptacle box. How close could the porcelain light fixture and receptacle be to each other to be code compliant? Using Led bulb in socket and both are on same circuit.
electrical wiring receptacle
add a comment |
I was trying to rewire this garage door opener where in current situation it is not code compliant to where it is. The picture above shows where a porcelain light socket was wired. I had hoped to use it for receptacle but the cover is too big for the box and the one that does fit is too recessed in ceiling. Behind the middle of box in picture is cross piece that is mounted between two ceiling joists. I had thought of keeping light and make another hole in ceiling for receptacle box. How close could the porcelain light fixture and receptacle be to each other to be code compliant? Using Led bulb in socket and both are on same circuit.
electrical wiring receptacle
add a comment |
I was trying to rewire this garage door opener where in current situation it is not code compliant to where it is. The picture above shows where a porcelain light socket was wired. I had hoped to use it for receptacle but the cover is too big for the box and the one that does fit is too recessed in ceiling. Behind the middle of box in picture is cross piece that is mounted between two ceiling joists. I had thought of keeping light and make another hole in ceiling for receptacle box. How close could the porcelain light fixture and receptacle be to each other to be code compliant? Using Led bulb in socket and both are on same circuit.
electrical wiring receptacle
I was trying to rewire this garage door opener where in current situation it is not code compliant to where it is. The picture above shows where a porcelain light socket was wired. I had hoped to use it for receptacle but the cover is too big for the box and the one that does fit is too recessed in ceiling. Behind the middle of box in picture is cross piece that is mounted between two ceiling joists. I had thought of keeping light and make another hole in ceiling for receptacle box. How close could the porcelain light fixture and receptacle be to each other to be code compliant? Using Led bulb in socket and both are on same circuit.
electrical wiring receptacle
electrical wiring receptacle
edited 1 hour ago
Machavity
8,46821942
8,46821942
asked 1 hour ago
georgia-guygeorgia-guy
1149
1149
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
They make lampholders that have an outlet built in. Solves the problem of mounting this to that octagon box.
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
add a comment |
I like Machavity's solution. The only problem would be that the box and wire are probably switched at the wall since there is a keyless socket there now. That would mean your opener would be on that switch. There would be nothing wrong with that unless somebody turns the switch off and then your opener would not work. That could work as a security type of 'vacation mode' where you could turn off your opener when you are away. I put a controlled plug-in adapter with a wireless remote for my mother-in-law because she had her door opened by somebody driving by. She turns it off at night or if she is not expecting us to come over.
I can't tell you code wise on the distance, but make sure if you put in another box it is 'ceiling rated'. A lot of cut-in old work boxes are only wall rated and this would affect the fire rating of your ceiling. I wouldn't suggest putting that wire in the same octagon box in the picture because you could end up with 240 volts in that box depending on which leg the wires come off your panel. Lastly, don't use a residential grade receptacle, pay the couple of dollars more for a commercial receptacle because these will grip the plug blades better.
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
They make lampholders that have an outlet built in. Solves the problem of mounting this to that octagon box.
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
add a comment |
They make lampholders that have an outlet built in. Solves the problem of mounting this to that octagon box.
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
add a comment |
They make lampholders that have an outlet built in. Solves the problem of mounting this to that octagon box.
They make lampholders that have an outlet built in. Solves the problem of mounting this to that octagon box.
answered 1 hour ago
MachavityMachavity
8,46821942
8,46821942
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
add a comment |
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
I had thought of that, but I was always concerned about how good the receptacle coming off the light socket would be. The garage door opener would be the only thing plugged into it (1/2 hp chain drive garage door opener).
– georgia-guy
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
Unless you think that light circuit is overloaded, this should be good enough to run a door opener
– Machavity
1 hour ago
add a comment |
I like Machavity's solution. The only problem would be that the box and wire are probably switched at the wall since there is a keyless socket there now. That would mean your opener would be on that switch. There would be nothing wrong with that unless somebody turns the switch off and then your opener would not work. That could work as a security type of 'vacation mode' where you could turn off your opener when you are away. I put a controlled plug-in adapter with a wireless remote for my mother-in-law because she had her door opened by somebody driving by. She turns it off at night or if she is not expecting us to come over.
I can't tell you code wise on the distance, but make sure if you put in another box it is 'ceiling rated'. A lot of cut-in old work boxes are only wall rated and this would affect the fire rating of your ceiling. I wouldn't suggest putting that wire in the same octagon box in the picture because you could end up with 240 volts in that box depending on which leg the wires come off your panel. Lastly, don't use a residential grade receptacle, pay the couple of dollars more for a commercial receptacle because these will grip the plug blades better.
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
add a comment |
I like Machavity's solution. The only problem would be that the box and wire are probably switched at the wall since there is a keyless socket there now. That would mean your opener would be on that switch. There would be nothing wrong with that unless somebody turns the switch off and then your opener would not work. That could work as a security type of 'vacation mode' where you could turn off your opener when you are away. I put a controlled plug-in adapter with a wireless remote for my mother-in-law because she had her door opened by somebody driving by. She turns it off at night or if she is not expecting us to come over.
I can't tell you code wise on the distance, but make sure if you put in another box it is 'ceiling rated'. A lot of cut-in old work boxes are only wall rated and this would affect the fire rating of your ceiling. I wouldn't suggest putting that wire in the same octagon box in the picture because you could end up with 240 volts in that box depending on which leg the wires come off your panel. Lastly, don't use a residential grade receptacle, pay the couple of dollars more for a commercial receptacle because these will grip the plug blades better.
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
add a comment |
I like Machavity's solution. The only problem would be that the box and wire are probably switched at the wall since there is a keyless socket there now. That would mean your opener would be on that switch. There would be nothing wrong with that unless somebody turns the switch off and then your opener would not work. That could work as a security type of 'vacation mode' where you could turn off your opener when you are away. I put a controlled plug-in adapter with a wireless remote for my mother-in-law because she had her door opened by somebody driving by. She turns it off at night or if she is not expecting us to come over.
I can't tell you code wise on the distance, but make sure if you put in another box it is 'ceiling rated'. A lot of cut-in old work boxes are only wall rated and this would affect the fire rating of your ceiling. I wouldn't suggest putting that wire in the same octagon box in the picture because you could end up with 240 volts in that box depending on which leg the wires come off your panel. Lastly, don't use a residential grade receptacle, pay the couple of dollars more for a commercial receptacle because these will grip the plug blades better.
I like Machavity's solution. The only problem would be that the box and wire are probably switched at the wall since there is a keyless socket there now. That would mean your opener would be on that switch. There would be nothing wrong with that unless somebody turns the switch off and then your opener would not work. That could work as a security type of 'vacation mode' where you could turn off your opener when you are away. I put a controlled plug-in adapter with a wireless remote for my mother-in-law because she had her door opened by somebody driving by. She turns it off at night or if she is not expecting us to come over.
I can't tell you code wise on the distance, but make sure if you put in another box it is 'ceiling rated'. A lot of cut-in old work boxes are only wall rated and this would affect the fire rating of your ceiling. I wouldn't suggest putting that wire in the same octagon box in the picture because you could end up with 240 volts in that box depending on which leg the wires come off your panel. Lastly, don't use a residential grade receptacle, pay the couple of dollars more for a commercial receptacle because these will grip the plug blades better.
answered 40 mins ago
lqlarrylqlarry
7,18711336
7,18711336
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
add a comment |
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
It is switched at the wall in kitchen nearby. Before it was run from switch in kitchen to junction box in attic and from there to door opener and light socket. I would be eliminating one of the runs of wire by using socket and receptacle together like above. Is the box you are talking about can be found at the big box home improvement stores? I didn't remember seeing that type there.
– georgia-guy
32 mins ago
add a comment |
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